The Doria Castle of Portovenere is one of the most imposing medieval fortresses in Liguria. Its origins date back to the 12th century, when the Republic of Genoa, having just taken control of the village, decided to establish a permanent stronghold there.
Don’t be misled by the name: this was not a noble residence but a military fortress. In fact, as with the castle of Vernazza, the Doria family—one of Genoa’s most influential dynasties—never lived here.
The first documented fortification was completed around 1161 in a strategic position near the Church of San Pietro. It featured twin towers and included distinct areas: the lower level housed the podestà and Genoese officials during their term, while the upper level was reserved for the castellan and the garrison, with austere rooms suited to military life. Over the centuries, and amid the ongoing tensions between Genoa and Pisa, the structure was repeatedly reinforced. A major transformation occurred between the 15th and 16th centuries, when the old castle was largely demolished and rebuilt according to more modern principles, to adapt it to the advent of firearms.
The appearance you see today largely dates from that period. The floor plan is pentagonal, with bastions projecting toward the sea and a massive circular tower on the landward side, a remnant of the medieval structure. The original entrance, once protected by a drawbridge, leads into a covered corridor that served as a defensive passageway. From there, a staircase ascends to a large vaulted hall supported by pillars, which once housed the Castellan’s quarters, later converted into the residence of the Captain of the People.
As is often the case with military buildings, there are no furnished halls or luxurious living quarters inside. Instead, the castle is a network of functional spaces: ramparts, arrow slits, watchtowers, and walls descending toward the village. After the restorations of the 20th century, the fortress became a venue for exhibitions, cultural events, and concerts, and it remains today one of the most spectacular panoramic viewpoints in the region.
An interesting fact: Next to the entrance of the Portovenere Castle, you can still see the ancient Genoese units of measurement carved into the stone. They were used to regulate trade in grain, salt, and other goods, serving as a reminder that this fortress was not only a symbol of military power but also a tool of economic control over the village.
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