SPACCANAPOLI San Gregorio Armeno

2:14

You've finally reached the Church of San Biagio dei Librai, where in addition to its monumental high altar, the ashes of Aurelio Severino are preserved; he was an illustrious doctor who died healing those affected by the plague. Next door is the Church of San Gennaro all'Olmo, which in turn hides another small church with a crypt where the remains of early Christian structures were found, the ossuary of Saints Biagio and Gregory, and even the burial sites of numerous Neapolitans from the area, including Giambattista Vico's father.

Now take a small scenic route from "Spaccanapoli" and go down Via San Gregorio Armeno. This small street full of artisan workshops offers the quintessence of Neapolitanism: you'll discover a myriad of fantastic nativity scenes and Christmas figures, in addition to figures from Italian "commedia dell’arte", starting with Pulcinella, in addition to the caricatures of well-known political, sports, and entertainment celebrities! But don't let the nativity scenes distract you from the splendid monastic complex of San Gregorio Armeno, with its beautiful sixteenth-century cloister! In front of you, you can already see the bell tower that connects the wings, and soon you'll pass underneath it like a bridge!

Going back towards Via San Biagio dei Librai, you'll pass in front of the great door of Palazzo Marigliano, also called Palazzo di Capua, which is now home to administrative offices: in the inner courtyard you can see an enchanting eighteenth-century double-staircase.  At the end of Via San Biagio dei Librai, Spaccanapoli changes its name once more, and after the intersection with Via Duomo it becomes Via Vicaria Vecchia.

Your walk ends with two churches that are over fifteen hundred years old: to your right is Sant'Agrippino a Forcella, and to your left is Santa Maria a Piazza, which both date back to about the time of Emperor Constantine.

 

FUN FACT: the artisans that make statuettes are always in the know: just think, when the singer George Michael died, the next day his statuette was already in the nativity scenes!

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