This splendid little town, founded by the Ligures in the 6th century BC, took on the name of Portus Veneris during the Roman Age, because there was a temple on the promontory dedicated to Venus, the goddess of beauty who was born of sea foam.
Enter the town from Piazza Bastieri, near the medieval walls and the watchtower, and walk along the carruggio flanked by very narrow tower houses. This charming walk will take you to the tip of the headland, where you can admire the magnificent little church of San Pietro, built in 1198. The black and white striped Genoese Gothic interior was built between 1256 and 1277, and you’ll notice the differences between the original structure and the later work. The church also has a curious little balcony from which you can admire Palmaria Island, directly opposite.
On the outside, the Gothic-style loggia offers magnificent views. Visible from here is the castle that belonged to the Doria family, who governed Genoa and once owned Portovenere.
I suggest you walk up the steep flight of steps to the castle, which dates to the 12th century and was once surrounded by a moat with a drawbridge, traces of which are still clearly visible. The castle and the towers are open to the public.
As you head down toward the sea, look out for the beautiful Madonna Bianca Sanctuary, built in 1098. Although significant changes were made to it in the 15th and 16th centuries because of fires and looting, the interior retains a particular charm.
Don’t miss a stroll along the bustling seafront, dotted with bars and restaurants and frequented by numerous celebrities, whose fabulous yachts you can spot in the marina.
Let me leave you with an interesting fact: beside the church of San Pietro, you’ll find Byron’s Grotto, where the poet used to go swimming. Byron is said to have swum across the gulf from Portovenere to Lerici, although this may be no more than a legend.
