RAMBLA

You've reached the Rambla de Sant Joseph, which is where the real Barcelona life starts. The Avenue comes alive with street artists and flower stalls, so much so that this part is also called Rambla de les Flors/The Flower Rambla. In Plaça de la Boqueria, between one stall and another, keep your eye on the floor where you can admire a beautiful mosaic made by the Catalan artist Juan Mirò.

Opposite the market you can visit the Museu de l'Eròtica, with a private collection dedicated to art and eroticism through the ages. A bit further down you'll see Palau de la Virreina, a magnificent rococo palace that owes its name to the widow of the viceroy of Peru; it is home to the "Centre de la Imatge", a modern space with exhibitions dedicated to avant-garde photography. Don't miss the 18th-century double staircase, which is quite scenic.

Continuing towards Plaça de Catalunya, the Rambla becomes "del Estudis", paying homage to the University of General Studies founded in 1400. This part is also known as Rambla del Ocells, not only for the presence of bird vendors, but also because its trees are home to colonies of sparrows.

Lulled by the chirps, stop to contemplate Església de Betlem built by the Jesuits: it's one of the few examples of Baroque architecture in the city. Unfortunately you can't see much of the interior decoration because it was destroyed in a fire during the Civil War. The church's façade on Carrer del Carme has a beautiful portal with twisted columns.

The last stretch of the Rambla takes its name from the Font de Canaletes, a beautiful 19th-century wrought iron fountain. This has always been the meeting and resting point of locals, and you too can rent a chair and enjoy the comings and goings of people passing by.

FUN FACT: if you've read the books about private eye Pepe Carvalho, you already know that many of the novels by the author Manuel Vasquez Montalban are set right around here. One of his fans is the famous Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri, who paid tribute to him by calling his commissioner Montalbano, the star of a TV series that's broadcast worldwide.